Clutch mods

The clutch cylinder and chainguard do not allow a propshaft to be easily bolted to the output shaft of the gearbox.

It appears as though replacing the chainguard with something more simple will sort this, but unfortunately the clutch cylinder on the GSXR is a bit bulky, having multiple protrusions.  THere doesn't seem to be a simple way of using it, if the clutch push-rod isn't to be disturbed.

Several solutions have been used to get around this problem:

1) Landrover slave cylinder.   Looks like it will work.
2) Change to cable operation.  Not sure of the numbers but GSXR750 has an interchangeable cover (perhaps).  I need to check my details on this.
3) Custom parts.  hawk racing sell some kind of adapter for their Dwarfcar GSXR1100 modifications.  Not exactly sure how this works, but it is a solution.
4) Kawasaki ZX7r slave cylinder.  My solution.

My solution uses the smallest slave cylinder that I could find, which has no nasty protrusions.  
1) Sell old clutch cylinder and chainguard on e-bay (~£20)
2) Get a ZX6r clutch cylinder (£10)
3) Make up aluminum plate with hole for above slave cylinder, and mounting holes
4) Make up spacers for the M6 bolts
5) Bolt up
6) Make up a pushrod (in my case I used a long 120mm) stainless M6 bolt, which I cut down and polished (electric drill and 'Peek').  This goes through an oil seal so needs to be properly made.

There are 2 proper mounting points, the third requires a bolt to be removed from the water pump.  The problem is that the water pump bolt is into almost nothing, so you will end up ripping out that thread and then putting a nut  (nylock is a good plan) behind the back of the water pump (this is very fiddly).  There is probably a better method, but this seems to work.


I am using a standard rearbrake master cylinder (SV650s) as the bore is quite small and all the fittings are compatible with the master cylinder.  I chose this approach as with a larger cylinder I would have had to have the cylinder pushrod so close to the pivot of the pedal to give a decent amount of clutch travel, I wasn't sure this would be possible given the pedals that I have.


Here are a couple of pictures.

gsxr1100 clutch modsgsxr1100wp clutch mods 2gsxr1100wp clutch mods 3




Gear change solution

I am going to have a simple lever on the tunnel of the car to change gear and it will operate forward and backwards (others go with clever paddle shifts, and clever cables, but paddles seemed all too clever, and stuffs up the use of Sierra switchgear).  

To get this working I need to convert the rotation of the splined shaft on the gearbox to this forward backward motion  (suzuki use a different spline to some other manufacturers, but are consistent across their range).  The standard approach to this is a bellcrank arrangement normally home-made.  In this case there are many many ways to solve the problem.  To keep things simple I decided to use Suzuki parts, so I have a GSXR 600 (bandit) gearchange and other components.  These have the correct spline, and an intermediate shaft that joints the splined crank to a second pivot.  I have cut off the gear pedal and bolted on an M8 rosejoint (this will go to a rod and then onto the gear change lever).  The vertical pivot of the gearchange lever means that pushing the rosejoint back and forward rotates the splined shaft and everything is lovely.  

I have used a length of alloy angle (50mm by about 6mm thick) which is pretty beefy and dead light, and mounted this to the engine using a couple of the mounting bolts.  It is all pretty simple.  The only downside is that the Bandit components are a bit warn which gives some slack in the change.  I can replace this with a less warn component if everything else turns out to work.  

I like the solution.  It is compact, dirt cheap, lightweight, mounts off the engine so keeps things modular, doesn't require welding, adjustable.  Time will tell on whether it works.